How to maintain an Oak Garden Swing...

Our oak designs need very little maintenance, but this is something you might want to try...

Oak is a generous wood. Left entirely to its own devices, your swing will silver gracefully and last for decades without a thing being done to it. Late spring is the best time to do it. The wood has dried out from winter, and you'll get a long stretch of fair weather before the height of summer sets the finish.

The same principle applies to oak benches, signs and hardwood in general when left outside.

Before and after: a William & Catherine swing seat, weathered and green with lichen, then back from a workshop refurbishment with fresh manila rope.

Your five-minute swing health check

Before you do anything, walk round your swing with a cup of tea and look at four things. The whole check takes about as long as the tea.

  1. Ropes. Look for fraying at the knots, soft spots when you squeeze, and any green mildew. Manila rope lasts four to six years in the British climate, longer if your swing lives somewhere shaded and dry. If it is badly frayed, it is time for fresh rope (see When to replace your ropes, below).
  2. Seat. Run a hand along the top. Does it feel rough and dry? Is there lichen in the grain, or bird poo from a passing visitor? A stiff brush often does the job. The more stubborn marks come off with warm soapy water, and a light sand sees off anything still clinging on. Removing the lichen in particular is worth the effort: a clean seat dries out much quicker between showers, so you can sit back down without ending up with a wet bum. The half-hour refresh below shows you how.
  3. Branch, beam and fixings. Look at the branch connections. Is the rope still securely attached? Does the branch still look healthy? One of the huge advantages of using natural rope is that the rope itself does not damage the branch, but check for fungi or other damage to the branch. If the branch is high up, take a photo and zoom in, or use a pair of binoculars to have a close look. On a swing frame, check the beam and the places where the rope meets it in the same way.
  4. Knots. Give each side of the swing a firm tug. They should feel solid.

If everything looks well, you've earned the rest of your tea.

If the seat or the rope gave you pause, the fix for each is below. If a knot has moved, a branch looks unwell, or you are unsure about anything at all, stop using the swing and get in touch. Send us a photo and we will tell you what we would do.

Lichen on a weathered seat. It looks lovely, but a clean seat dries much faster after rain.

A half-hour DIY refresh

In the video below Jeanette sands and oils one of the swings in her garden. It had hung under a willow tree for four and a half years with nothing done to it, and the whole job took her half an hour.

The best time of year is late spring, on a dry day. The wood has dried out after winter, and you get a long stretch of fair weather before the height of summer. Whenever you do it, the wood must be completely dry before the oil goes on.

Oiling is optional. Oak has so much natural tannin that it looks after itself, and a good sand on its own keeps the seat smooth and quick to dry. The oil is for looks: it brings out the grain and makes the carving stand out.

You'll need:

  • 120 grit sandpaper (coarse)
  • 240 grit sandpaper (fine). Ask us if you need either.
  • A soft brush
  • Two clean, lint-free rags: one to put the oil on, one to wipe it off
  • Danish oil (a small tin goes a long way). Teak oil or a garden furniture oil will do the job too.

1. Brush off. Dust, cobwebs and last autumn's leaves. If a bird has left its mark, a little soap and water will wash it off. Let the seat dry completely before you start.

Step 1. The starting point: lichen and fine weathering lines on a seat that has hung under a willow tree for four and a half years.

2. Sand with 120 grit. Work along the grain, never across it, and go evenly over the whole seat. Keep the sandpaper away from the rope, as it can damage the fibres. That's why we sand by hand: an orbital sander can cut into the rope at the corners. Go gently over the carving rather than into it. The letters are carved deep enough that a light sand won't harm them. How much you take off is a matter of taste, so step back now and then and have a look.

Step 2. Sanding by hand with 120 grit sandpaper, along the grain.

3. Brush off the dust. Sweep the dust off the top and out of the carving so you can see how far you've got. The weathering stays inside the letters while the wood around them turns lighter, and we love that look.

Step 3. Brushing the sanding dust off the seat and out of the carved letters.

4. Finish with 240 grit. A quicker pass all over with the finer paper. A smooth surface dries faster and gives lichen less to grow on, so the seat lasts longer. By the end the wood should feel like the inside of your wrist. On an oak bench or sign, this is where we would stop.

Step 4. After the 240 grit the seat is smooth again and ready for oil.

5. Oil generously. Pour a little Danish oil onto the seat and spread it along the grain with a rag. Oak soaks it up like a sponge, so keep feeding it for as long as it drinks the oil in. You'll see the end grain change colour in particular. Always follow the instructions on your tin.

Step 5. Pouring Danish oil onto the sanded seat, ready to spread along the grain with a rag.

6. Wipe off the surplus. Leave the oil to soak in for 10 to 15 minutes, then wipe away anything left on the surface with a clean rag and give it a polish. Make sure there are no pools of oil, so it dries evenly.

Step 6. Wiping off the surplus oil with a clean rag after 10 to 15 minutes.

7. Leave it to dry. Give it a few hours before anyone sits on it. You don't want oil on a good pair of jeans.

Step 7. The finished seat: the grain is richer and every carved letter stands out.

A word on oily rags. Rags soaked in oil can catch fire on their own, so never put them straight in the bin. We burn ours to be safe.

A refurbished swing doesn't stay golden for long. Oak is determined to silver outdoors, and we wouldn't argue with it. What you get is a swing that dries quicker after a shower, a carving that reads more sharply, and that unmistakable look of something that's been loved.
- Jeanette

Why Danish oil

Danish oil sinks in rather than sitting on top, so the oak still breathes. It's a blend of natural oils and a small amount of varnish, which means it nourishes and protects in one step. We use it because it suits the way oak wants to live: slowly weathering, slowly deepening, never sealed shut in plastic. It also smells of a country house in summer, which we count as a bonus.

When to replace your ropes

Manila rope is a beautiful natural material, and like everything beautiful and natural, it has a working life. Four to six years is typical in our climate. Sun and rain take their toll, as does the sheer joy of being swung on.

For most people the moment to replace it is the obvious one: when the rope is badly frayed, or has actually given way. When that day comes, send the swing back to us.

We'll fit fresh rope, tie the knots the way they were tied originally, and have it back to you ready for another long stretch of summers.

In the UK, book our Swing Re-rope service and we will collect the swing, re-rope it and bring it back. Outside the UK, there is a Swing Re-rope service for non-UK residents. We also sell our manila rope by the metre.

Why manila rope

Manila is the rope that taught the world to trust natural fibre.

It's strong, forgiving, and built for a life outdoors, the same qualities that took it to sea for centuries. Salt, sun and rain are all in a day's work for it.

Just as importantly, it weathers in step with the oak. As the wood softens from honey to silver, the rope deepens from pale gold to a warm, sun-bleached fawn. The two age together, the way a good pair of materials should.

There's a longer story behind manila and how it came to be the rope of choice for makers like us, but that's for another day.

Swing Re-rope service (UK Residents only)

from £85

After a few days your swing will come back to you looking like the swing in the video AND with fresh rope.

Did you know about the Quercus Club?

Every Oak & Rope owner is part of The Quercus Club. You collect acorns on every order, and you can put them towards a refurbishment, a re-rope, or anything else in the shop. They never expire. Read more about The Quercus Club.

Thank you for refurbishing my swing so quickly. After having had our swing for 6 years I could not bear seeing our tree without it. Luckily it was back in no time and I love it more than ever!
- Jennifer, Chipping Norton
Two large swings back from a workshop refurbishment, with fresh manila rope.

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